These puns are going to get tiresome!

My flight from Mumbai arrived in Bangkok in the afternoon of 10th February. I immediately took a taxi to Khao Sarn Road and applied, via a travel agent for my Myanmar visa. Unfortunately I was told it would not be ready until the 15th February due to the weekend being followed by and preceded by, a public holiday. During those 4 days, I went to see a Muay Thai (Thai Boxing) event, explored the city and went drinking with fellow backpackers. My passport, with the visa contained within, was returned to me, as promised in the evening of the 15th, and that very night I left on an overnight coach for Ranong.

The crossing between Ranong (Thailand) and Kawthong (Myanmar) is completed in a small, rickety, wooden boat, the type propelled by a noisy, smoky outboard motor which is connected to the propeller via a long shaft. All of the other people crossing into Myanmar were ex-pats living in Bangkok completing their monthly "visa run." It is for this task the border seems to cater best, and it took much convincing before officials realised I was intending to stay in Myanmar.

The heat of the town is stifling (35 C +) and after finding accommodation and changing sufficient money into the local currency (Kyat, pronounced chat), I decided to find a beach. After a brief 'discussion' with a motorcycle taxi driver which involved me pointing to the Burmese word for beach in my not-so-trusty Lonely Planet, we set off.

The drive to the beach took us down a winding lane, then across a 200m wooden bridge connecting an island to the mainland. On the island lay a small village, comprised entirely of wooden huts on stilts. I would believe it if I were told it hadn't changed for 100 years.

The beach was beautiful; dotted about the horizon were islands of the vast Mergui Archipelago, whilst local fishing ships and a small group of local children playing in the crystal-clear water comprised the foreground. I went for a swim. Upon leaving the water I was beckoned over to a group of about 5 villagers, sitting at a table outside a hut. They insisted on plying me with an, as-yet-unknown alcoholic beverage, whilst we communicated as best we could. They were clearly celebrating something, eventually I understood it to be the Chinese New Year, but I am still not certain. They invited me back to the other side of the Island, which was facilitated by motorcycle, naturally with a drunken driver and 2 pillions! In the village I was taken to one of their houses where the entire community had seemed to gather, food was prepared, music was playing and drink was flowing. I was treated as a guest of honour, it was obvious that very few, if any, tourists get to the island. We ate fresh seafood, before returning for another swim in the waters of the Andaman Sea. Early in the evening I returned to Kawthong to book the speedboat ride to Dawei (Tavoy) the following morning. What an introduction to an amazing country.

I booked the speed boat ride with the assistance of the manager of the hotel at which I was staying; he went to the length of sending his son with me to obtain the tickets. I had to be up and ready to board the boat at 3am the following morning.

My account of events;

17th February,
3:00am Arrived at Kawthong dock.
3:30am Boarded the boat.
5:30am Depart Kawthong headed for Myeik followed by Dawei.
Unfortunately and bizarrely I appear to have been seated in the mothers and babies section.
Forgot to bring food or drink for the 13 hour journey. Bugger!

1300hrs
Arrived in Myeik, half way. Luckily had a couple of hours relief from the crθche, as I managed to get out onto the dangerously narrow deck. Clung on for dear life prior to returning inside just as we docked at Myeik.

Myeik
1300hrs – 1330hrs
Some of the mothers and babies appear to have left the boat, only to be replaced by new mothers and babies. Still no food for me, although I did manage to purchase some mineral water from a member of staff on the boat, exciting stuff.

1700hrs
Arrival at Dawei, bus takes an hour before leaving, elderly monk blows cigarette smoke at me from behind. He is smoking whilst chewing bettlenub!

1830hrs
Finally arrived at hotel, rooms are dirty and cell-like, fortunately it has an attached restaurant. Checked in.

to be continued.....